Today made me realize how I am taking up an insignificant fraction of time in the grand scheme of things. It also felt like I went from the set of Indiana Jones to Clash of the Titans. I was walking through history books and could feel the lives, the deaths, the assessed Truths, the consequences, the riches, and a time when there was no line between the laws of a religion and the laws of a governing body. All around are massive achievements of “man” with the hopes of displaying such wealth and power to cause all men to genuflect, if not cower. Somewhere in this witness to history that skips between that which we call western and eastern dangles the direct lineage of our world today. How far we have come…or how far have we come?
Back to the comedy of life, I woke up and looked at the iPad by the bed. It said 7 and I rejoiced because that meant I had slept better - in fact, so well that I must have missed the call to prayer that begins around 6am. I got up, turned on the light, and woke Kim up….just about the time that I realized my iPad had never connected to wifi and that meant it was 7PM in Memphis and 3am in Istanbul. Oops. Kim got back to sleep and I stayed up. At least I was able to get my cell phone to start working with Verizon.
Tried to sleep and couldn’t. Got up and did some yoga. Finally, we got breakfast around 8:30. I finally had real Turkish coffee and WOW. This stuff is amazing!!! It’s almost sweet without having sugar. It is so delicious. And the bottom is just a thick sludge of grounds. Yum. And very energizing, to say the least. LET’S GO!!!!
Back to the comedy of life, I woke up and looked at the iPad by the bed. It said 7 and I rejoiced because that meant I had slept better - in fact, so well that I must have missed the call to prayer that begins around 6am. I got up, turned on the light, and woke Kim up….just about the time that I realized my iPad had never connected to wifi and that meant it was 7PM in Memphis and 3am in Istanbul. Oops. Kim got back to sleep and I stayed up. At least I was able to get my cell phone to start working with Verizon.
Tried to sleep and couldn’t. Got up and did some yoga. Finally, we got breakfast around 8:30. I finally had real Turkish coffee and WOW. This stuff is amazing!!! It’s almost sweet without having sugar. It is so delicious. And the bottom is just a thick sludge of grounds. Yum. And very energizing, to say the least. LET’S GO!!!!
We headed toward Hagia Sophia by way of the Hippodrome and past the Blue Mosque. It was amazing to see the expanse of the Hagia Sophia. It was intended to be the largest church in Christendom and was the center of the Eastern Orthodox church. The church was built by Justinian I (centuries after Constantine) and is a prime example of high Byzantine expression. (See the pictures and you’ll recognize them from any Art History survey class.) It was later changed into a mosque when the Ottoman empire arrived. With this came Islamic expression and covering up or removing any images of people. Remember followers of Islam believe that Jesus was a prophet and very important; however, Muslims would no sooner put up a picture of Muhammad. There can be no images of people. Therefore, beautiful geometric pattern adorns the walls.
The call to prayer was also heard while we were outside, which is heard 5 times during the day. This video is exactly what is heard and is recorded between the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. This video is not mine, but it is exactly what happens.
Walking into this place was astounding. I overheard somebody ask, “How many Notre Dame’s would fit into this?” I have been lucky enough to visit this beautiful example of High Gothic in Paris, so my guess of at least 3 or 4 matched with the wry grin I noticed pass the tour guide’s face. THIS PLACE IS GIGANTIC, both in landscape and in height. It is just beautifully overwhelming.
The first areas before one even enters the main HUGE chamber is still gigantic. The ceilings are tall and the doors are (about) 20 feet high. Everything is a beautiful marble with a few concrete fixes. The amount of money and time to make this place…I can’t even wrap my head around it. The age of this place is obvious. When you see the warp of the marble floors from the CENTURIES of people walking on them…it blows my mind. I have felt this in similar buildings that are icons of human existence and the feeling never lessens.
The first areas before one even enters the main HUGE chamber is still gigantic. The ceilings are tall and the doors are (about) 20 feet high. Everything is a beautiful marble with a few concrete fixes. The amount of money and time to make this place…I can’t even wrap my head around it. The age of this place is obvious. When you see the warp of the marble floors from the CENTURIES of people walking on them…it blows my mind. I have felt this in similar buildings that are icons of human existence and the feeling never lessens.
Then I entered the main room and looked up and out. WOW. One side has scaffolding for renovation. There are at least two levels. And remember that there is NO WOOD in here. All of these things you may think are lumber are all out of marble. The details that can be seen are breathtaking, let alone all that is too far away.
Further in, there are a few areas set up with signs explaining that for which they had been used. Some were in the main area and a few (like the Sultan’s library) were in the area off of this. (I’m sorry it has been so long since I have studied this part of art history that I do not recall the proper names of the building; however, with the change from church to mosque, perhaps there is not a proper title).
Some places have been uncovered to find the beautiful examples of Byzantine art. When I saw the first example, deep within on the furthest wall far far above, I was pleased. The co-existence of a past church and past mosque now used as a museum to share with all is a beautiful thing. Because this is neither a church nor mosque, there are no requirements to cover one’s head or remove shoes.
We had been down here awhile and then realized there were people upstairs. We found our way back to the front of the building and saw the sign to go up (hi, kitty #1). Not upSTAIRS because there were no stairs. It was a ramp, marble slick with years of being used, that kept traversing back and forth for what seemed forever, but going up “1 floor” is equal to 5 floors.
On this floor, there were more examples of beautiful Islamic pattern with hints of Christian secrets being uncovered. Turning the corner to the far wall and there it was. I remember being tested on this very mosaic in an Art History Survey I class my freshman or sophomore year. To see it in person was brilliant, especially the form that IS the mosaic tiles. Admittedly, I wasn’t overly fond of it or any Byzantine artwork before today, even after grad school research on the appropriation without full comprehension of Roman styles mixed with Eastern aesthetics. From this point forward after seeing it in context and in reality, my opinion has changed.
On this floor, there were more examples of beautiful Islamic pattern with hints of Christian secrets being uncovered. Turning the corner to the far wall and there it was. I remember being tested on this very mosaic in an Art History Survey I class my freshman or sophomore year. To see it in person was brilliant, especially the form that IS the mosaic tiles. Admittedly, I wasn’t overly fond of it or any Byzantine artwork before today, even after grad school research on the appropriation without full comprehension of Roman styles mixed with Eastern aesthetics. From this point forward after seeing it in context and in reality, my opinion has changed.
Further down the hallway was a grave marker (dead bodies buried in all sorts of surprising nooks and crannies in the building) and there was more Byzantine art uncovered amongst the Islamic pattern.
The other side of the building on the second floor has to be reached by going to the front again, as it is like a U shape so that the altar is open straight up to the ceiling. This side had similar high ceilings and geometric pattern, but no Byzantine art showing. Kitty (kitten) #2 spotted here. Also in the back ramp/stairwells were random holes in the walls...and this sign. Creepy.
After about two hours, we wandered outside. In the courtyard and surrounding buildings were many tombs of sultans (sorry,no pictures). One could walk in shoes removed and see the coffins draped in green cloth. There was also an old baptistry. This sign made me stop. It appears that the Ottomans took a sarcophagus (dead person) and repurposed it as a fountain. Interesting.
By this time, 4 wandering artists lost each other. Kim and I waited for awhile. I bought some street food that I didn’t recognize just for the experience of it. It was a boiled, then grilled chestnut. It didn’t taste very good to us, but I’m glad we tried it. :)
Finally, we decided to head to the Basilica Cistern which was pretty much RIGHT there. I had been told that it would take very little time to see, but to DEFINITELY see this place. On the way over, we saw this funny street sign. The top 2 directions were to Babylon and another lost city, so the mileage was in roman numerals. :) This seemingly unimportant stone and its explanation were here too, amongst the moving cars and modern life.
Soon we found the door to a small-looking building with this explanation. We purchased our tickets and headed downstairs. And herein begins my switch to the Clash of the Titans (circa 1981) set.
Finally, we decided to head to the Basilica Cistern which was pretty much RIGHT there. I had been told that it would take very little time to see, but to DEFINITELY see this place. On the way over, we saw this funny street sign. The top 2 directions were to Babylon and another lost city, so the mileage was in roman numerals. :) This seemingly unimportant stone and its explanation were here too, amongst the moving cars and modern life.
Soon we found the door to a small-looking building with this explanation. We purchased our tickets and headed downstairs. And herein begins my switch to the Clash of the Titans (circa 1981) set.
Down, down, down. The large room had eery columns over water. A child laughed somewhere and - due to the setting - was the creepiest sound I had ever heard. And we hadn’t even gotten to the strange mystery yet. Read the sign and understand.
While we were down here, Kim and I decided to grab some pomegranate juice and sit at the little restaurant…cuz when is this going to happen again?
To summarize the rest of our day, we ended up finding the best place to eat. It is JUST around the corner. It is actually called the Soul Kitchen with a horrible saxophone as part of its logo. I come from Memphis, the land of soul food, so this made me laugh. Of course, it wasn’t soul food, but the good was great, the service was wonderful, the restaurant looked out over the water, and I acquired some free wine to wrap the evening up. Before we headed in for the night, we walked by a hookah bar/restaurant and saw the end of a whirling dervishes dance. Whoa. Eyes closed, he just twirled around and around to some trippy music.
Overall, Another amazing day in a deep textured place.Tomorrow, back the SALT research library, the Design Biennial, and possibly the Grand Bazaar!
